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No Accounting for Taste

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  • Starting to feel some spring vibes with gingham check over blue... navy wool Jerry Gilden Spectator dress from 1952 with late 40s/early 50s navy and white check gab jacket from @playclothesvintage; 50s belt by Phelps // #ootd #truevintageootd#1950sfashion
  • Ted Stein suit and cape photographed by George Hurrell, 1945 // #1940sfashion
  • “This is the fashion… soft-to-touch, figure-flattering wool jerseys that drape like silk. Designed by Jerry Gilden who knows a thing or two about top details, lines and nice slender price tags.” Ad for today’s dress (right) as seen in a 1952 newspaper ad. This dress cost about $17 in 1952, about $165 in today’s dollar. // #1950sfashion #vintagead
  • Jerry Gilden was born in Ohio in 1905 and worked in the garment industry from the age of 14. One of his earliest experiences was working for a sweater manufacturer, where he learned the importance of diversification—the sweater business was not profitable year round. He began to develop blouses and jackets to round out the seasons, and when he went into business for himself in 1945, blouses and jackets also formed the bulk of his offerings, which in a few years expanded into casual dresses. His designer Gisele Klein died suddenly in 1952, and he brought on Sadye Weinberg to replace her along with Sadye’s husband Abe to help run the business. They left in 1960 to form their own firm. // #1950sfashion #vintagelabel #fashionhistory
  • A lot of you loved this image from my stories the other day so I thought I’d put together my own take on it (unfortunately minus the dog; Maggie already went to work with her dad today). The inspiration look is from Izod of London by David Crystal, Spring 1946. “The American Woolen Company executed this gay, pure wool check and matching skirt fabric, exclusively for Izod. This is one of an important new collection in which easy lines and fine tailoring verify Izod leadership in casual fashions. The suit $49.95. The blouse about $15.” // #1940sfashion #vintagepalette
  • Color inspiration: rust + red 🧶🧣“The belted tunic topcoat in wool Melton cloth. When you take off the belt, the coat flares; when you belt it, pull your belt tight. About $45. By Roxspun… A new type of hat… Hattie Carnegie’s veil of scarlet wool jersey that ties under the hair, with a stiff, crescent cuff overhead. Dawnelle gloves. Cartier jewels. Phelps Associates bag.” Kodachrome by Louise Dahl-Wolfe for Harper’s Bazaar, August 1944 // #1940sfashion #vintagepalette #louisedahlwolfe
  • Yesterday’s suit, from @revellecollection with a nod to late 1940s tailoring like we saw in the last post. This vintage windowpane wool is sold out, but you can still get the Gentlewoman skirt in some beautiful fabrics… I recommend it especially if (like me) you can’t wear vintage flat front pencil skirts but want something that feels era-appropriate. This isn’t an ad, I just really love this skirt ♥️ (plus a thrifted 90s turtleneck) // #tuesdaysuitday #ootd #vintagestyle
  • It’s been years since I’ve done a #tuesdaysuitday but whenever I do, I remember how good it can feel to put on something so tailored and put together. This one on the left is my vibe today, by Glenwood. Photo by Ewing Kranin for Good Housekeeping, September 1950 // #1950sfashion
  • The ensemble from the last post, in sketch form. Leslie Morris designed for Bergdorf Goodman from 1929 to 1967 (with a brief stint at RKO Pictures in Hollywood in 1942 which did not suit her). She understood the needs and lifestyles of her upper class clientele, growing up in a wealthy family in Philadelphia and Manhattan. Leslie was humble about her work and didn’t do much to gain personal recognition, but recognized she was, winning a Coty award in 1957 “for her consistently creative approach” in her specialized field of custom fashion, working “with notable strength and great individual charm.” // #1940sfashion #lesliemorris #bergdorfgoodman #fashionhistory

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My name is Jessica, and I love old things. I wear, collect, research and sometimes sell vintage clothing. This is some documentation along the way.

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No Accounting For Taste is a personal blog of Jessica Parker. All words and original photographs are copyright Jessica Parker, 2007-2018